Open, and logging new jobs · weekdays, 9am–5:30pm Phone is quicker: 0800 6890668
HDR Hull Data Recovery 0800 6890668 Price it up
HDR / The devices we recover / SD and camera cards

Devices · SD and camera cards

Card recovery across Hull. No second copy exists, and the moment will not come round twice.

Cards pick their moment: halfway through a holiday, or halfway through the copy that was meant to be the backup. They are one of the commonest things posted in from Hull and the East Riding. A card that reads blank, or locked, or as nothing at all will usually give its pictures up. The condition is that no one has formatted it first.

Most jobs: nothing back, nothing to pay Free to look at, then one fixed price Parcels come in from Beverley, Grimsby and Skegness

An engineer will take the details
0800 6890668

Cards turn up most weeks. Ordinary bench work.

None of these? Use the triage →
Sending it to us: pack it well, insure it for the full value and send it tracked to the Leeds intake lab. Return postage is ours. If you want an engineer to look over the packing before you tape the box shut, ring first. The detail is in the sending page.

The card types that come in most often.

SanDiskUltra, Extreme and Extreme Pro: what is in most camera bags, and the range copied more than any other.
Integral & KingstonIntegral's SD and microSD, plus Kingston's Canvas React Plus and Canvas Select Plus.
Sony · Lexar · ProGradeSony TOUGH SD, the Gold and Professional ranges, and CFexpress in both Type A and Type B.
XQD & CFexpressAngelbird, Nikon and Sony: fast, sealed units. When one goes quiet it becomes a bench job.

What those error messages mean.

Yours not listed? →
What you seeWhat the fault isWhat to try
Memory card error on a Canon, or Cannot access the memory cardThe body can no longer read the file systemEject it and stop there
Card cannot be accessed, then Reinsert/change the card (Canon DSLR)Contacts wanting a clean, or a failing controllerSay no to the format
Nikon body: Card may be damaged. Insert another cardPhysical damage, or nothing recognisedDo not format it in the body
Card locked / Card is write-protectedThe little slider on the card edge — or a controller locked shutIf the slider is fine, the fault is the card
Format the disk before you can use itWindows reports RAW instead of a file system; the frames are untouchedDo not agree to it
No memory card, with a card plainly in the slotA dead controller, or contact pads that have goneThat means chip-level work

From the box arriving to the files going back.

Jobs we have logged →
01

A case number first, then a free diagnosis Free

Each item that arrives gets a case number the day it lands. An engineer looks at it and finds the real fault, and that costs you nothing. You are told in plain terms which files can come off the drive and which cannot. A price follows — one figure, written down. No work starts until you have seen it and agreed to it.

The diagnosis is freeOne price, put in writingNothing to pay yet
02

Nothing is written to the original

The first job is a bit-for-bit clone. After that the card goes back in its sleeve, and everything we run afterwards runs on the copy.

The whole card copied firstThe original is set aside
03

Tables rebuilt, or frames carved

Every repair is made to that clone. Where the file tables can be put back, your folder names come with them. Where they cannot, frames are lifted on their header bytes alone — RAW is no harder than JPEG.

Found by header bytes aloneRAW as well as JPEG
04

Nothing goes back unchecked

A count of files proves nothing at all. The recovered shoot is opened image by image, and every one has to draw in full, at the size it came off the camera.

Every image openedEach one viewed at 100%
05

You sign it off, then it comes back

You are not billed while you are still thinking. The list of what came off the drive goes to you first, and the invoice waits on your word. Files go home on media bought in for the job, with the postage back on us. We keep the job open until you have opened them on your own machine.

You approve the listing firstCopied onto new mediaReturn postage at our cost

What turns up most often

  • Fake cards are the one job that cannot be won — someone has reflashed the controller so that it claims capacity the flash was never given. Write past the genuine size and the file is accepted, then dropped without a word. Nothing was stored, so nothing returns.
  • Test a card you are unsure of: fill it to the end, then read the whole thing back. H2testw does this on Windows; F3 covers Mac and Linux. The false figure is held in the card's own registers, so the box, the printing and Windows all repeat it in turn.
  • Modern cards are moulded as a single block, controller and flash set in the same resin. Once one stops answering, reading is done from minute pads on the die under a microscope. A card reader plays no part in it.
  • A format mends nothing — the camera lays fresh tables across the records that carry your folder names, the sequence they were taken in, and the dates attached.

The number nobody actually has: there is no reliable count of how many fake cards are on sale. Labs and manufacturers agree the problem is broad, fakes reach this bench regularly, and every hard percentage you see in print was a guess. The true figure changes nothing about the rule — whatever was written past a fake card's real capacity is beyond any lab.

One case from the casebook.

HU · HUL-2026-0779LOGGED ✓

One card held the wedding, and it showed empty

The wedding had been shot the evening before; by morning the 512GB SanDisk showed as empty. The card was cloned before anything else was attempted. The file system came back out of that clone, and a deep carve then collected the fragments that no longer had a home. Every frame was there, and the photographer kept the client.

Every frame recovered48 hours of bench time

Before you box it up.

Do these first

  • Eject the card once, then leave it alone
  • Post it in a hard case, or taped to stiff card
  • Say which camera, and what it was shooting
  • Quote the error wording exactly

What not to do

  • Letting the camera format it and hoping
  • Shooting on once something has gone wrong
  • Pointing free software at the original card
  • Trying every reader and adapter in the drawer

Asked most weeks, answered here.

The camera keeps offering to format it. Do I agree?

No. A format lays fresh file tables over the very records that hold your folder and file names. Leave the card alone and more of it comes back, with the names still attached.

Do you get RAW files back, or only JPEG?

RAW as well. A carve matches file signatures, and CR3, NEF, ARW, DNG and RAF each have one; video containers work in the same fashion. A lot of what lands on this bench belongs to working photographers.

The card snapped in two. Are the photos lost?

Often not. A monolith card keeps everything on a single die. If the break missed that die, a chip-level read is still possible. The card is scrap whichever way it goes.

How long does a card take?

Cards are the quickest work in the building. Most are done within two or three working days, and faster when a deadline demands it. Tell us the day you need them by and the work is planned back from there.

A drive left switched off loses nothing more.

Leave it switched off. A failing drive has a limited number of starts in it, and each one spends a little more. The free diagnosis will say which files can be read.

0800 6890668