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HDR / The devices we recover / SD and camera cards

Devices · SD and camera cards

Card recovery across Hull. No second copy exists, and the moment will not come round twice.

When cards go bad, they almost always do so when you least expect it: halfway through your holiday or halfway through the duplicate which was supposed to be the backup. Cards are among the most frequently sent items to us for recovery from Hull and the East Riding. If a card appears to be blank, locked or empty, then usually the card's images can still be recovered. However, the catch is that this only holds if no-one has attempted to reformat the card yet.

Only pay if we recover your data, on most jobs Free to look at, then one fixed price Parcels come in from Beverley, Grimsby and Skegness

An engineer will take the details
0800 6890668

Cards turn up most weeks. Ordinary bench work.

None of these? Use the triage →
Send it to us: get a quote first, either over the telephone or via our online quote form. Then carefully package it to prevent damage in transit, insure it for its full value and post the package using a trackable service to the Leeds intake laboratory; alternatively you may drop it off there (Monday to Friday, 9am to 5:30pm, no appointment needed). For laptops, PCs, Macs and recorders, we require only the drive unit itself (storage soldered to the board is not taken on; if you're not sure which kind you have, ring us first); for RAID arrays and servers, we just need the individual disks, labelled by their respective bays; for a NAS, send the drives if you can remove them, but if not, please include the entire NAS device. A single external drive goes whole, with its cable and power adapter. We pay for return postage. If you would like an engineer to inspect the packaging prior to taping the box closed, please give us a call first. Further information is available on our sending page.

The card types that come in most often.

SanDiskUltra, Extreme and Extreme Pro: these cards are used by many photographers and are probably in the majority of camera bags, and because of this fact have been duplicated more than any other brand of memory card.
Integral & KingstonThese include Integral's SD and microSD cards, as well as Kingston's Canvas React Plus and Canvas Select Plus.
Sony · Lexar · ProGradeThey also include Sony's TOUGH SD, the Gold and Professional ranges of memory cards, and CFexpress in both Type A and Type B formats.
XQD & CFexpressWhen one of these cards goes silent (i.e., stops working completely), it typically needs to go to a workbench to find the source of the problem. These types of cards include Angelbird, Nikon and Sony, and are generally faster-than-average, sealed memory cards.

What those error messages mean.

Yours not listed? →
What you seeWhat the fault isWhat to try
Memory card error on a Canon, or Cannot access the memory cardThe camera cannot recognise the file system on the card.Eject the card and stop using it immediately.
Card cannot be accessed, then Reinsert/change the card (Canon DSLR)Contacts that need a clean, or a failed controller.Do not allow yourself to be talked into reformatting the card.
Nikon body: Card may be damaged. Insert another cardCard damaged physically, or card is completely unrecognised.You should not attempt to format the card within the body of your camera.
Card locked / Card is write-protectedThe tiny slider located on the edge of your memory card, or a controller locked shut.If the slider is working correctly, then the problem lies with the memory card.
Format the disk before you can use itInstead of showing a normal file system in Windows, it shows 'RAW' and the frames remain intact.Do not agree to this option.
No memory card, with a card plainly in the slotDead controller, or contacts that are failing.This is a chip-level issue.

From the box arriving to the files going back.

Jobs we have logged →
01

A case number first, then a free diagnosis Free

Every piece of gear that shows up receives a case number on the very same day it arrives. An engineer examines it and determines what is really wrong with it and there is no charge for this. We give you straight language about which files we will be able to copy from the disk and which ones we won't be able to. Then we provide you with a single price quote, in writing, based upon these findings. We don't begin working on anything until you agree to the quoted price.

The diagnosis is freeOne price, put in writingNothing to pay yet
02

Nothing is written to the original

The initial task is to create a complete exact replica. Afterwards, the original card returns to its protective jacket and anything we subsequently run will be running off the replica.

The whole card copied firstThe original is set aside
03

Tables rebuilt, or frames carved

Any fix will be applied to that duplicate. When possible, the file tables are restored and your folder names come back with them. However, if the file tables are lost, images are brought in based upon their header bytes alone, and RAW is no harder than JPEG.

Found by header bytes aloneRAW as well as JPEG
04

Nothing goes back unchecked

The number of files retrieved is irrelevant. Each individual image of the recovered shoot must display fully at its original capture size.

Every image openedEach one viewed at 100%
05

You sign it off, then it comes back

You will not be charged while you think about this. First, you receive a list of everything that was recovered from the drive. Once you have seen the list and given us the go-ahead, the bill comes next. Files are returned to you on media purchased specifically for this job and we cover the return postage as well. Your job is kept open by us until you can view them on your personal computer.

You approve the listing firstCopied onto new mediaReturn postage at our cost

What turns up most often

  • Fake memory cards are a job you can't win: the controller has been reflashed. It now lies about how much the flash module is capable of. You can write beyond what the true size of the flash module is, and it accepts a new "file" to store. But once that happens, it drops the file and says nothing. Since nothing was written, nothing will be returned.
  • If you have doubts about a memory card, you should test it: fill it completely, and then try to read all of it back. There are utilities for each platform that do this. For example, on Windows, you may use H2testw. On Mac and Linux, you may use F3. The false information is stored in the controller's internal registers. Therefore, the box, the printed label and the host computer all report back the false information.
  • Most modern memory cards are moulded together into a single unit where the controller and flash storage area are encased in a single piece of resin. As soon as either the controller or the flash stop responding, we can perform a chip level read directly off the die using an optical microscope. We don't need access to a card reader to perform such reads.
  • A format mends nothing: the camera creates new tables over all the records that carry your folder names, the order they were taken in, and the dates.

The number no one has: there is not enough reliable data to provide an accurate count of how many fake cards are being sold. Labs and manufacturers agree that the problem of counterfeits is widespread and fakes land on this bench regularly. Each hard percentage you see in print was a guess, and the true figure changes nothing about the rule: whatever was written past a fake card's real capacity is beyond any lab.

One case from the casebook.

HU · HUL-2026-0779LOGGED ✓

One card held the wedding, and it showed empty

The wedding had been shot the evening before; by morning, the 512GB SanDisk showed as empty. The card was cloned before anything else was attempted. Then the file system came back out of that clone, and a deep carve collected the fragments that were left without an address. Every frame was still there, so the photographer kept the client.

Every frame recovered48 hours of bench time

Before you box it up.

Do these first

  • Once you eject the card, leave it alone.
  • You should get a quote first. When you post the card, put it in a hard case (or tape it to stiff card).
  • Say which camera you have used, and state what it was shooting.
  • Quote the error wordings exactly.

What not to do

  • Hoping that formatting the card in the camera will recover some of it.
  • Carrying on shooting once something goes wrong.
  • Using free software directly on the original card.
  • Trying every reader and adapter in your drawer.

Asked most weeks, answered here.

The camera keeps offering to format it. Do I agree?

No. A format places fresh file tables over the same records that hold your folder and file names. Leave the card alone and more of it returns with the names still attached.

Do you get RAW files back, or only JPEG?

Yes, RAW too. A carve matches file signatures, and CR3, NEF, ARW, DNG and RAF all have them. Video containers work the same way. A lot of what ends up on this bench belongs to working photographers.

The card snapped in two. Are the photos lost?

Often not. Because a monolithic memory card stores data on a single die, if the damage did not affect the die containing the data, we can still attempt to read the data at a chip level. Regardless of whether it works or not, the damaged memory card is essentially useless.

How long does a card take?

Memory cards are the quickest work we do, and are usually completed within two or three working days. We typically complete projects even quicker when a time constraint exists. Please tell us the date you would like the project completed by, and we will plan our schedule accordingly.

A drive left switched off loses nothing more.

Leave it off. There are only a few start attempts left in your failing drive and each attempt uses up a little more of what remains. Our complimentary diagnosis will determine what files are readable.

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